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Friday, May 24, 2019

London-From The East to The Shard

Seringkali kekaguman berbanding terbalik dengan keintiman. Makin intim, kagum lantas memudar. Tapi tidak untuk London.

Hati masih saja bersenandung riang saat jendela pesawat sesaat sebelum mendarat melintasi Tower Bridge yang berkemilauan dari angkasa. Padahal ini ketiga kalinya saya mendatangi si kota pemilik jembatan itu. London gemar menghiasi kenangan dengan berbagai warna nyaman, membuat saya menyambanginya lagi dan lagi.

Saya tidak menampik anggapan bahwa London adalah kota beranggaran mahal. Berita baiknya, kota ini memungkinkan kita memilih “mahal” yang sepadan dengan kebutuhan juga kepuasan. Malahan, semakin sering melancong, pengeluaran bisa makin hemat. Contohnya, kartu transportasi bernama Oyster memiliki paket mingguan atau bulanan yang ekonomis, tinggal pilih sesuai kebutuhan. Yang membuat asyik, kartu Oyster tidak hanya untuk kereta bawah tanah, tapi juga berlaku untuk kereta overground, bus, bahkan potongan harga untuk national rail dan riverboat. Wow, bisa jelajah London sepuas hati-sepegal kaki!
Dalam kunjungan kali ini, saya datang dengan sebuah kenikmatan; berjalan tanpa buku panduan. Tak punya banyak rencana, tetapi siap ke mana-mana.

Salah satu si pembuat rindu adalah London Underground; atau disebut ‘Tube’ oleh warga lokal. Berjalan-jalan di lorong bawah tanah yang menyambungkan berbagai kereta antarzona ini menjadi rekreasi tersendiri.

Saya berjalan penuh semangat melupakan penat di bandara Heathrow menuju London Underground, tak sabar mendengar rekaman suara peringatan: “Mind the gap, between the train and the platform”.

“Permisi….” Eits, tahu-tahu bahu saya dicolek seorang ibu separuh baya berambut pirang cepak, “Kalau saya mau ke pusat kota, ambil kereta yang mana, ya?” tanyanya sambil menyodorkan peta Tube Station.

“Oh, kalau dari bandara cuma ada satu kereta; Piccadilly. Anda bisa turun di Holborn, itu stasiun di Central Line,” saya pun menunjuk garis merah di peta, ”Tapi saran saya, sih, kalau mau langsung lihat banyak spot yang London banget, turun di Green Park, terus naik si abu Jubilee, exit di Westminster. 

Keluar-keluar langsung dihadang Big Ben, sangat dekat ke Thames River dan London Eye.”
Seiring dengan matanya yang berbinar, berpendar pula perasaan bangga dalam hati saya; bisa membantu sekaligus hapal peta tube station! Yah, lumayan, kan ya, walau cuma hapal tiga-empat stasiun.

Begitu kami menginjakkan kaki di eskalator, ia berdiri di sebelah kiri. “Oh iya, kalau mau berdiri di eskalator, mari di sisi kanan.” Saya membantu memindahkan kopernya ke sisi kanan. ”Soalnya, sisi kiri buat yang lagi buru-buru.” Saking antusiasnya, saya sampai memberikan wejangan ini-itu bagai pemandu wisata.

Sesungguhnya ini info mahapenting. Teringat kala saya pertama kali datang, planga plongo di eskalator bagian kiri, ketubruk orang yang kecepatan berjalannya bagai cahaya.
Si ibu pelancong pun semakin semangat tanya ini-itu, saya pun semakin sumringah menjawab, sambil iri dalam hati; semoga saat umur saya separuh baya masih semangat jalan-jalan.
Saking asyiknya mengobrol, tak terasa kereta sudah sampai di stasiun Green Park. Kami berpisah.

“Have a good day & enjoy London!” Tsah, lagak saya sudah macam yang punya kota saja.
Setelah beberapa kali ganti kereta dan menitipkan koper di hotel, saya keluar di Shoreditch High Street stasiun di wilayah East London, menuju jalan paling termasyur di timur London; Brick Lane.
Ternyata beda dekade, beda harumnya. Kalau baca sejarah area Brick Lane, dulu jalan ini terkenal sebagai kawasan kumuh dengan aksi kriminalitas tinggi. Sekarang? Untunglah yang pertama kali menyambut saya begitu keluar stasiun adalah seorang perempuan cantik berambut merah memberikan sebuah brosur.

“Tunjukkan brosur ini di toko vintage, Anda akan mendapatkan potongan harga 25%.”
Wah, senang rasanya disambut diskon! Pandangan saya kini terampas gerombolan anak muda yang sedang asyik melukis di tembok. Sontak saya tersadar, Brick Lane adalah sebuah galeri seni outdoor yang bisa kita nikmati secara cuma-cuma.  Dari pagar, tembok, sampai gedung tinggi, terhiasi berbagai kreasi jalanan yang menarik.
Saking kagumnya, tahu-tahu saya hampir tersungkur di trotoar, tertubruk lelaki paruh baya berjas rapi.

“Maaf!” Dia berhenti sesaat sambil menolong saya menyeimbangkan badan, lalu seketika melesat lagi ke ujung jalan.

Mendadak malu. Ternyata saya masih turis jelata! Tapi, toh, tidak berdosa juga, kan, menikmati sebuah kota sebagai turis, traveler, atau apa sajalah yang membuat diri nyaman. Selama tidak menghalangi jalan orang. Ha! Saya berjalan ke pinggir, lajur khusus pejalan lambat.

Di sebuah persimpangan, hidung saya mengendus aroma yang sungguh mengundang selera. Setelah celingak-celinguk, ternyata jalan ini dipenuhi berbagai restoran kari. Jadilah saya menikmati makan siang semangkuk lezat kari moilee, berisi potongan ikan empuk dan udang renyah yang tenggelam dalam santan hangat.

Selain dikelilingi pameran street art, toko vintage, dan restoran kari, Brick Lane juga dikelilingi toko buku antik dan kedai kopi cantik. Ah, sebagai penulis yang hobi makan dan mengopi, saya merasa dimanjakan!
brick lane

Menjelajahi Brick Lane di East London
Brick Lane
Selesai bersantap sedap. saya menuju toko vintage menggunakan panduan di brosur yang tadi saya dapatkan, letaknya sejajar dengan Brick Lane, di Hanbury Street. Begitu masuk toko bergaya Victorian warehouse ini, saya disambut tembok dipenuhi kemeja flannel 90-an. Ada pula ruangan khusus ‘pemujaan’ piringan hitam berbagai artis lawas.

“Halo, mau secangkir kopi?” Saya kaget, tak menyangka di ruangan sebelah ada pojok khusus mengopi. Yang menyapa adalah seorang perempuan Asia berponi, yang kemudian saya ketahui berasal dari Jepang, bernama Shioni. Ia sudah menetap di London selama enam tahun.

“Dulu saya pernah kedatangan pelanggan Indonesia, pas tahu saya seorang Japanese, dia tiba-tiba mengajak ngobrol dengan bahasa aneh. Ternyata dia kira saya orang Javanese!”

Shioni pun tak sungkan menceritakan pengalamannya saat pertama kali singgah ke London, “Dulu saya nekad datang ke London, gak tau mau tinggal di mana dan kerja apa.”

“Kamu bebas visa, ya, ke UK?” tanya saya penasaran.

“Kalau untuk tinggal tidak lebih dari enam bulan, sih, kami—orang Jepang bebas visa. Memangnya kalau Indonesia bagaimana?”

“Kami, sih, butuh visa. Visa liburan berlaku 6 bulan. Jadi butuh persiapan khusus buat ke UK.”

“Tapi sepadan, kan?”

“Sangat,” jawab saya mantap, sambil menyesap secangkir kopi dari Santa Alina, Brazil. Aromanya yang memberi sekelebat karamel, menyegarkan lidah yang sebelumnya terguyur kari.
 
“Ini kue untuk menyambut kedatanganmu,” Shioni tiba-tiba menyodorkan sepotong carrot cake.

“Wah, terima kasih! Tapi bukannya di UK kalau makan carrot cake mesti dengan secangkir teh?” Gurau saya—mengedipkan mata sambil menunjuk cangkir kopi yang telah kosong.

“Kalau kamu bayar pakai kartu kredit, saya malah bisa ngasih teh satu pot penuh!” ujarnya terkekeh riang. 

“Ngomong-ngomong, sudah pernah menemukan Misteri 7 Hidung di Soho?”
 
“Hah? Misteri bagaimana? Hidung horor?” Mendadak saya membayangkan hidung-hidung berterbangan.

“Tahan khayalan liarmu! Ada tujuh hidung bertebaran acak di tembok-tembok kawasan Soho. Konon kalau kamu menemukan semuanya, semua keinginanmu terkabul!”
            
“Ah, baru konon. Saya mau yang pasti-pasti saja!”
Mata Shioni terbelalak sambil tersenyum jail, “Saya tantang kamu! Kalau berhasil selfie dengan tujuh hidung itu, kamu saya traktir masuk gedung The Shard untuk lihat pemandangan London malam-malam!”
            
Wah, tentu saja saya menyambut tantangannya! Tak lama kemudian, saya segera pamit berburu hidung.

***

Ah, tidak susah menemukan si tujuh hidung yang asyik nyempil di Central London ini. Tapi, psst, terima kasih untuk bocorannya, Google! Jangan bilang-bilang Shioni, ya!
Alhasil malam keesokannya, Shioni menepati janji. Ia mengajak saya menjelajahi gedung The Shard yang berbentuk seperti puncak nasi tumpeng. Gedung yang selesai dibangun pada 2012 ini bukan hanya tertinggi di London, tetapi juga di kawasan Eropa Barat. Ah, tak sabar ingin segera menikmati gelimang gemerlap ribuan lampu kota.
 The Shard, lancip di antara kotak-kotak
“Terima kasih, Shioni, kamu baik sekali!” Pekik saya kegirangan begitu turun bus, bagai bocah ketemu mainan.
            
“Dengan senang hati. Kebetulan saya dapat tiket tambahan gara-gara promo kejutan dari kartu kredit!”

Sayangnya, kami terlambat beberapa menit! Ternyata jadwal masuk terakhir adalah pukul 20.30. Yah, gagal sudah impian kami! Tapi Shioni mengisyaratkan saya untuk tetap ikut melebur kerumunan memasuki lift gedung.

Lift dengan cepat membawa kami ke atas, membuka pintu di jajaran restoran yang dikelilingi dinding kaca. Saya sempat lupa bernapas beberapa detik, terhipnotis kerlap-kerlip London yang memabukkan.
Pemandangan malam London dari restoran Hutong di The Shard
“Saya harap kamu gak keberatan makan Chinese Food di UK!” Shioni membawa saya ke sebuah meja di ujung ruangan. Rupanya ia telah mempersiapkan kejutan yang menyenangkan, karena selain pemandangan menakjubkan, saya juga mendapatkan makan malam yang menggiurkan.
            
“Ditraktir chinese food oleh orang Jepang di Inggris? Saya sangat merasa internasional!” Kelakar saya sambil bersulang.
Kami kemudian asyik bersantap sambil sesekali curi pandang beberapa selebritas Inggris yang sedang asyik bercengkerama atau sekadar lalu lalang. Wah, foto bareng, ah!
            
Malam ini menambah lagi satu kenangan di London yang tak akan saya lupakan. Travel never felt so good and I can’t wait to get more surprises from you, London!

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

Cycling Down Ubud's Streets

If Bali has taught me one thing, it's the more often we get lost, the more we know many routes of our way home. And to think that some beautiful paths can't be discovered without getting lost, it's an unexpected blessing. 

Central Ubud is now more and more commercialized, however we still could manage to find 'secret' pathways that goes over the villages, connects us to the hidden serenity.

One of the best ways to explore the hidden gems in Ubud, is cycling around the mysterious lanes. 

The feeling of the aloeswood smell-breeze in your hair is unforgettable, while enjoying the uniqueness of daily local's life at their compound—which relative solitude, and observing hundred ceremonies throughout the year—if you decide to stay longer.

Initially, I rented a bike as I was not yet able to drive a motorcycle, and there was no adequate public transportation in Ubud. Secondly, I wanted to wandering around the village. Third, I just wanted to follow my own schedule of seeing the sights. Forth, it's affordable: bicycle rental rates are between Rp 20,000 ($1.38)- Rp 30,000 ($2.07) perday! 

The first day of cycling, I started from Sayan with the plan to visit center Ubud, through Penestanan. Right after 1 km, the route felt like a big mistake, as I was torn between conflicting emotions when I cycled on a steep uphill in Penestanan: should I go back and take another route? I felt totally wrong when I walkup up the uphill—making my bike looked like just an accesorries. But then, I remembered, cycling was not a competition. But I promised to myself, I won't go cycling down that route anymore! However, it was quite dangerous both when I had to paddle up dan down racing with cars passing by, with an extra effort to pass through pedestrians. 

Alas, I finally arrived at Campuhan—cycling through the wider strees, crossing the river, started to enjoy the Ubud vibes. 

One thing that instantly attracted my eyes on the streets of Ubud, those big trees which wrapped around ina woven black and white checkered textile—known as poleng, embodies the symbol of Rwa Bhineda; the balance of nature. Poleng means two tones, such as black and white or a day and a night, constructs two opposite things that makes a harmonious combination. 

Thus the reason why things are wrapped in poleng, those big trees are believed has a respected magical power, and it should be preserved. A pecalang, the traditional Balinese village police whom I asked when I took a breath, explained more about poleng on the trees,“We need to thank the trees that have given us the supply of oxygen; the shelter and food sources for herbivorous creatures.”

I saw lots of poleng textiles in Monkey Forest area, which lead me to shortcuts exploration.

Actually, the term of shortcut is a bit misleading, as it was not 'a shorter alternative' route, but definitely a 'more freely non-traffic' route. 

Let's start with: 

Monkey Forest street ↔ Raya Ubud street.

What's more annoying than being stuck in traffic while cycling in Monkey Forest street? Near Kopi Bali House, there's a small street which I thought only accessible for pedestrian, which turned out it's a 'secret' no-traffic path that brought me to Raya Ubud through Bisma street! This secret route is also applicable if you need to go to Campuhan street. Beware, a bit rocky stone-cobbled street, please cycle safely.

Monkey Forest street/forest ↔ Nyuh Bojog

If you drive the car from Monkey Forest street to Nyuh Bojog street, you should circling several one way roads, up to total 5.6 kilometers. But cycling throug this short cut, the distance cut down to 500 meters.

Raya Ubud street ↔ Andong street

This shortcut is my favorite for a greenery getaway as the road flanked by rice fields and palm trees. If you dare to wandering around a little further away from the centre, how about cycling north to tegalalang rice terraces—one of the most insta-worthy tourist attractions. I would recommend going early in the morning before the buses start roaming around lunch time. FYI, tegalalang is a nice place to watch sunrise.

Another greenery getaway for cycling; find a jogging track behind Hotel Campuhan which known as Campuhan hill. The thing is, we need to pass around a hundred small stairs, which makes us have to prepare more muscles to carry the bike.

If the stairs scare the hell out of you, how about cycling down Subak Sok Wayah street, along the lush green fields of rice and coconut trees on the small path. If you are cycling from Ubud central to Campuhan, please turn to right before Ibah Hotel to find out this hidden gem. Spoiler: lots of delicious restaurants lined the streets.

If you want to recreationally cycling with a group, then the more the merrier! 

Check out these bike tour operators:

- Green Bike Cycling Tour

Phone: +6285101699692

Cycling into a balinese village compound, experiencing local culture, starting from Kintamani to Ubud.

- eBikes Bali

Phone: +628123866408

It's a good choice if you can't decide between riding a motorcycle or a bicycle! Starts from 9 am to 12 pm, then from 3 pm to 6 pm. Custom times can be requested for private groups.

- Bali Eco Cycling

Phone: 0361 975557

They offer two alternatives: the full day and half day—including massage! Available for sunrise cycling, after breakfast, dan after lunch.

 - Banyan Tree Bike Tours

Phone: +6281338798516

They offer the tour for experienced cyclists in small groups, exploring hidden parts in Bali for 4 hour ride along 32 km.

 - Bali on Bike

Phone: +6281236622505

Pick up time Ubud: 08.00-08.30 am.

They take cyclist to the countryside, volcanoes, and lunch at tour owner house.

 Their tour probably have the similar route and departure-arrival time. 

If you are worried of the cycling duration that seem takes long hour; they offer a downhill tour, as most of the time what you do is simply pressing the brakes.

 Before you go jump on the bike:

· Ensure the wheels are properly aligned, and the brakes are properly working

· A properly fitting helmet

· The bike's light—especially if you are heading out the dark.

· A bike lock, especially if you plan to make multiple stops.

· Poncho, don't let the rain ruin your plan.

Finally, enjoy stunning views along our bike routes of Ubud, and remember one important thing: please ride on the left side of the road.

Friday, May 18, 2018

Sunrise Volcano Trekking

Sometimes in life you are faced with a choice between two things that both matter. Which one do you prefer: a splendid sunrise or an alluring sunset? In Bali, you can have it both, in one spot.

Although this may be true, before we explore one of the beautiful sun-seeker spots in Bali, we'd like to introduce you to one of the mythical giants in Balinese folklore; Kebo Iwa. 

Kebo Iwa was a ruthless giant and always hungry. When his hunger was unbearable, he rampaged through the village. He ate whomever he met and destroyed houses and temples. By reason of despair and fear, the villagers initiated the way to kill Kebo Iwa by made a fake promise: they would provide a large amount of food and asked Kebo Iwa to rebuild the houses and temples in return. 

After a while, when the village was fully rebuilt, Kebo Iwa dug a deep well as a water supply for the villagers. As he dug deep inside the land, a mountain began to form. 

One day, in the well, Kebo Iwa fell asleep on a full stomach. The villagers did the final action, their true intention: throwing the limestone and water into the well. Drowned in suffocating, Kebo Iwa tried to escape the well, but he failed; died on a boiling water, an exothermic reaction as the result of combination of water and limestone. Strangely enough, the well is now known as Lake Batur, while the enormous pile of ground as high as 1717 m beside the lake is the spot that we're now going to explore: Mount Batur. 

However, three big questions are now probably popping out in your mind: Is it safe to climb Mount Batur, considering of Mount Agung eruption? Reading the latest info from Indonesia's National Board of Disaster Management, there are no indications of increased volcanic activity, it remains at a safe level one. In addition, Mount Batur is located north-west of Mount Agung, with the distance 18.16 kilometres between them; peak to peak.

The next question would be: is it hard to climb Mt. Batur? The route to Mount Batur can be tracked in any web mapping service and if you are in a relatively good fitness condition, it's possible. 

The final question could be: is it possible to hike Mt. Batur without a tour guide? It's possible. Nevertheless, if you're a non-Indonesian, it's forbidden to climb it unassisted. After all, you can be still adventurous to ride on motorbike from your location to the starting points of climbing at Mount Batur, which are located at Pura Jati Luhur or Toya Bungkah. There will be the guide association booth, offering packages starting at Rp  400.000,- 

Presently, the Mount Batur's climbing usually starts around 3 am. We approximately needs around two hours to reach the peak, so you could witness a splendid sunrise around 6 am.

But wait! 

Before you go jump on your vehicle, please put these things in your backpack: 

- LED flashlight. If you prefer being hands free: bring a headlamp.

- Sunscreen, liniment for muscle pain, antiseptic ointment, bandages.

- A wind-breaker, a hat, sunglasses, a spare t-shirt, raincoat—just in case, as weather forecast sometimes misleading. 

- Mineral water, snack, wet tissues. And egg—you will know why!

Anyway, please avoid heavy loads, don't let your bag tackle your step!

What to wear?

- Please dress in layers, so you can adjust your body temperature. It's gonna be cold and quite windy at the top.

- Have your long pants on, to warm and protect your legs from the rocks and long grasses. 

- Put on your hiking boots with ankle support.

Prepare your stamina

The first half hour of the climb is fairly flat. After the first pelinggih (shrine), watch your steps as the track becomes steeper with full of solid rocks and pebbles. No need to walk in a hurry, enjoy the ride. During your half-way to the summit, enjoy the stunning beauty of the Lake Batur.

Finally, from the top of the Mountain Batur, be ready to embrace the serenity of sunrise at the east. And look to the west; at the solid view of Mount Abang and Lombok's Mount Rinjani. While enjoying all its beauties, please try to cook your egg in the hot volcano steam. Now you know! 

Notes:

- All the walk can take 4-6 hours.

- Mountain Batur is a sacred Hindu mountain, please respect local sensibilities — forget your short shorts and tank tops.

- Beware of cheeky monkeys! They like to own your cute things! 

- There are some aggressive non-licensed guides trying to sell tours when you arrive at the starting point. If you need an assurance on feeling safe, you can get a better deal on some trekking tours around the island that offer the packages which include transportation and an english speaking guide.

Here are 5 tour operators for your unforgettable Mount Batur Trekking:

1. Bali Eco Cycling

http://www.baliecocycling.com/batur-trek/

This tour is suitable for you who are confident on bicycles. They provide snacks and a hearty breakfast. Their package combines Mount Batur Sunrise & Swim with full day Bali Eco Cycling Tour.

Price: starts from $88,- /person

Pick up points: Uluwatu, Canggu, Nusa Dua, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Sanur, Ubud. 

2. Bali Sunrise Tours

https://www.balisunrisetours.com/trekking-tours/mount-batur-sunrise-trekking

They provide a driver and air-conditioned car or mini-bus, entrance fee to the Kintamani area, a guide per group of 4 people, flashlights, drinking water, volcanic steam boiled eggs.

Price: starts from Rp 650.000,- /person

Pick up points: Nusa Dua, Kuta, Sanur, Ubud, Candidasa, Lovina 

3. Bali Jungle Trekking

https://balijungletrekking.com/mount-batur-trekking-sunrise-hiking-tour

They provide a private service with a flexible trip which allow you to make a stop at places after the trek without any additional charge as long as it’s on the same direction to your hotel.

Price: starts from $49/person (Minimum two person) 

Pick up points: Ubud, Seminyak, Kuta, Canggu, Kerobokan, Legian, Sanur, Nusa Dua, Jimbaran, Uluwatu, Lovina, Pemuteran, Amed, Sidemen.

4.  Kadek Bali Trekking

They have many option for tour package.

http://www.kadekbalitrekking.com/mount-batur-trekking

Price: starts from $45 / person (Minimum two person)

Pick up points: Kuta, Seminyak, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Sanur, Ubud, Padang Bai, Lovina, Amed

5.  Mount Batur Sunrise Trekking

They provide a private driver, a car, and an English speaking private hiking guide as well. 

https://www.mountbatursunrisetrekking.info

Price: Rp 1.320.000,- per person / Rp 1.760.000 per two person / Rp 2.250.000 per three person / Rp 2.600.000 per for person / more than for person: @ Rp.650.000

Pick up points: They pick you up directly from your hotel.

 

Tuesday, September 19, 2017

The Misunderstanding Club

Most of the misunderstandings in Ubud start out with: “I think your (Indonesian) friend doesn’t like me.”

“Why would you think so?” I knew that my Indonesian friend really like her—my American friend. I set them up on a romantic dinner at a cafe in Bisma street because they were both single, and my instinct works better than Tinder. But the dinner seemed to fail. A bit.

In Ubud, people come and go. Some stay longer. Some give us quick love, then leave us with deep-feeling remains. I call it ‘the classic tale of Ubudian romance’.
But some romances were destroyed by cringe-worthy habits.

In my defense, these habits are not part of Indonesian (or any country) culture and are not necessarily entitled to a certain ethnicity or race. In case you don’t have time to check Wikipedia page about Indonesia, we live here with over 300 ethnic groups with different local languages. Culture shock doesn’t happen only to foreigners meeting ‘the locals’ here. Even between us Indonesians, culture shock happens, too.
I mentioned this to give you a bit of a background, so you could understand this and withhold judgments.

My good friend is originally from the South of Sumatera. One day, I was invited by his mother to taste her homemade pempek (savoury fishcake), together with her big family. After the last bite, they all had a burping parade! His father said, the more delicious the food, the louder the burp should be. Interesting! So, I gave them my loudest burp because their pempek was delicious indeed.

“Burping means appreciating the kindness of the host who serves you food!”

“Ah, seriously?” I was not the only one who was surprised about this. My friend was also surprised. Even he didn’t know the subliminal message of burping!

He said, “I thought we’re doing that because it's something we need to do after eating, naturally. But I know I couldn't do that outside my house.”

No, he lied. He burped in my room, too. But I don't mind, I do that, too. It's like a level of intimacy between close friends; burping (and farting) brutally in front of one another! So, we’d like to apologize when we 'accidentally' burp in front of you. Fear not, this is because we feel a deep connection with you! :p A-ha!

Speaking about deep connections, we—or most of us—have a special relationship with sambal (hot sauce/chili paste). You name it: sambal matah (raw), sambal hijau (green chilli), sambal bawang (onion and garlic), or sambal dabu-dabu (in Manadonese cuisine—my favorite), or just a simple hot sauce packed in plastic bottles. We pair sambal with our favorite food: fried egg, deep fried tempeh, curried noodle, grilled fish, and sometimes pizza...

I love to freak out my Italian friend as I squirted plenty of hot sauce on top of my Quattro Formaggi pizza. He calls it a violation, I call it ‘food fusion’. He said, “I tolerate your pizza, but I can’t accept it.” Ouch!

My friend’s experience was worse. He got dumped by his ex-girlfriend because he likes to eat sushi with sambal. “My ex-girlfriend is really a sushi freak! So many rules! She wants me to pick up the sushi with my hand, because if I pick it up with chopsticks, I could ruin the perfect Chef's creation! She got really angry when I picked up a nigiri maki with a fork and drowned it on sambal terasi (shrimp paste chili)!” I laughed, “Dude, you are the freak!” I mean, his ex-girlfriend is a Japanese Chef—not just 'a sushi freak'. She was the one who made that sushi!

It's mind blowing to think that some 'normal' combination here, could be truly awkward somewhere. One evening, I cooked my childhood comfort food: curried noodle with shredded supermarket's cheddar cheese. Apparently, this nostalgic moment raised the concern of my Dutch friend. “You call this cheddar? Why would you put this fake cheddar on a noodle? Or in any cakes?” OMG, arrest me!

As you might notice, some of our manufactured cheese here are scented/chemically flavored—but not made from 100% real cheese. Honestly, most of us just don't care, because they are cheaper than real cheese! However, the bright side was that now, every time he comes back from The Netherlands, he gets me different kinds of delicious cheese; saving me from a fraudulent life. Okay, if this is what it takes to have delicious free stuff, I would pour fake wine into my noodles next time!

I remember a Christmas dinner last year, when my French friend warned me as he saw my fingers crawling slowly to a cheese platter. He noticed that some of us—Indonesians—couldn't stand the 'exotic aroma' of certain cheese. Ouch, he should have met my family then! We're all cheese maniacs—either real cheese or fake ones!

I also found out that the shape of Dutch cookie; kaastengel (which is also our obligatory cookie for Moslem’s Eid / Lebaran) is originally longer than Indonesian kaastengel. 'Kaas' = cheese and ''tengel' = hand/arm. So it does look like a cheese stick. It is a cheese stick! Thus, if the Dutch kaastengel is a 'cheese-hand', the Indonesian kaastengel should be called 'kaaspinky', because it’s the size of our pinky fingers! Have you ever tasted it? It's so deliciously crispy that you can't be quiet about it!

But, ssh. Let's be silent for awhile. Let's hear about what my American friend said, the one who was dating my Indonesian friend. “Throughout dinner, he just kept quiet. He seemed more interested in the food than having a conversation with me. When the steak came to our table, I became invisible,” she said.
First, he was nervous. That was his first date after 3 years of hiatus.
Second, that cafe in Bisma has the most delicious tenderloin steak in Ubud.
Third, my Indonesian friend and me came from the same hometown—with a similar family rule: we grew up eating in silence. Well, you can call it mindful eating. But that term sounds too fancy for me.

My mama forbade me to talk a lot while I’m eating because she was scared that I would choke on a piece of meat or a fishbone. “Enjoy the food, embrace the taste, a chat can wait.” And most of the times, we had our dinner on the sofa, watching some TV series. Ah, wonderful times! Since then, I’ve also became that cool—calm—collected man while munching the main course, and only got back to my chatty-and-gossipy self while waiting for the dessert. But of course, I adjust my manner to fit in the banquet squad. I could manage to talk while eating with this rhythm: chew, chew, swallow, talk, chew, chew—hey what's in it? Onion? Chilli? Hey! Swallow, talk!

So, if we eat in silence with you, it doesn't mean we dislike you—unless you're such a douchebag. Then I said to her, “Oh, well, he likes you, and the tenderloin, too!” In the end, my Indonesian friend and my American friend live happy ever after until visa requirements do them apart. Sad.

But don't cry. I have a happy ending for you, because not all weird mixtures are blasphemous. One starry night, I waited for my dinner to come in a warung in Penestanan. Suddenly, an international traveler screaming hysterically, “I didn't know that avocado juice could be this delicious! I thought avocado was just destined to be guacamole!” Whoa, cheers, Mate!

Now I'm wondering, is there any food, beverage—or 'local habits' that baffles or amazes you, but you’re too shy to ask, or too cool to tell? Don't worry, I heard some experts say that our brain judges others, naturally. But we have the option to understand and discuss about what baffles us. Don't let stereotypes fool us.

Because in the end, love conquers all.
But better hide that sambal. *burping*


Kritik Klasik

Tanpa Menolong Cuma Melolong


Friday, August 25, 2017

Kagum Yang Berlebihan

Tinggal di pulau para pelancong membuat saya terbiasa dengan ungkapan-ungkapan kekaguman yang terdengar berlebihan.

Misalnya, "Aku merasakan banyak keajaiban semenjak tinggal di sini, pesona Bali telah memanggil  batin saya sejak lama. Aku dan energi Bali benar-benar bersatu padu dalam harmoni indah menyanyikan lagu merdu di hati nurani." Lalu ia pun berpose yoga menantang sinar senja, menunggu saya memotret untuk stok foto instagramnya.

Tapi terkadang, saya diingatkan untuk bersyukur atas 'kelebayan' mereka. Suatu sore, seorang pelancong asing bertandang ke kamar saya. Kamar saya ini bentuknya loteng toko, sederhana sekali, jauh bangetlah kalau dibandingin sama rumah bos First Travel yang memukau itu.

Begitu pintu terbuka, si pelancong asing mendadak terkesima, "Astaga, ini apartemen impian saya! Lihat langit-langit itu! Ukiran pintunya indah sekali, sungguh keajaiban Bali!" Ia lalu membuka 'pintu keajaiban Bali' itu. "Waah, lihat balkoni ini! Kamu bisa menikmati senja di sini setiap hari?! Kamu beruntung sekali!"

Saya terkekeh geli mendengar racauannya, "Kamu mabuk ya?"

"Tidak, saya bersungguh-sungguh. Kelak kalau pensiun, saya mau tinggal di apartemen seperti ini, di Ubud! Sudah berapa lama kamu tinggal di sini?"

"Tinggal di 'apartemen' ini maksudnya?" Saya malu sendiri menyebut loteng ini dengan sebutan apartemen. "Hampir 3 tahun."

"Apa?! TIGA GITUAN TAHUN?!" (Ini terjemahan kasar dari "What? Three fucking years?!") Apa kabarnya kalau dia dengar ada teman sudah tinggal 30 tahun di sini, ya!

Tapi walau tersipu-sipu geli, dalam hati saya diam-diam bersyukur, betapa kehidupan yang kadang kita sia-siakan ini, bisa jadi impian buat seseorang.

Dan kalau mau 'fair-fairan', saya pun melakukan 'kelebayan' yang kurang lebih sama saat pertama kali berkunjung ke negeri mereka.
"Astaga, trotoar kota ini lebar sekali! Gak ada sampah! Gak ada motor yang ambil hak pejalan kaki!! Ini zungguh keajaiban!" lalu berpose jalan kaki dengan tangan merapikan manset lengan kemeja, memasang raut wajah orang penting yang akan berjibaku dengan jadwal padat. Padahal mah cuma mau cari toilet gratisan aja, sih. Ya masa mau pipis mesti bayar 20 ribuan. Di instagram boleh sok tajir, kehidupan sehari-hari mah perlu ngirit! Mungkin mereka pun heran kenapa saya (kamu juga kan?! *nyari teman*) begitu mengagumi trotoar 'biasa', dan memakainya bagai jalur catwalk.

Itu belum termasuk foto sok candid di bus, stasiun kereta, jembatan tua, atau menara besi--yang bisa jadi membuat mereka bertanya-tanya "Memangnya di negerimu tidak ada beginian, ya?"

Jadi, mungkin saat ini kamu sedang bercermin dan berkeluh kesah dalam hati, "Anjir gue jelek amat." Tapi entah malam ini atau besok pagi, seseorang bakal memandangmu penuh kekaguman, bagai melihat keajaiban alam.
Karena mata sama-sama bulat, cara pandangnya bisa berbeda-beda.

Aah, lihat awan itu, kawan! Bagai gulali surga!!

Monday, August 21, 2017

IGOR : NYAAMM!!



Konon, monster paling mengerikan itu bersemayam dalam benak sendiri. Dia bisa menguasai alam pikir, bahkan mampu membuatmu tak mengenali diri.

Tapi, monster tak perlu berwajah seram, bertubuh gigantis, bersuara gemuruh. Ia bisa jadi berwujud sesuatu yang sering kau impi-impikan, kau dambakan, sesuatu yang sering kau seruput dalam kedinginan, atau kerinduan.

Seperti pengalaman Alam Taslim saat melahap mi telur goreng. Mendadak, helaian demi helaian mi itu memberontak, ingin melepaskan diri dari cengkeraman sumpit, sampai-sampai mangkuk pun jungkir balik.

Telur ceplok menjelma jadi mata, sementara beberapa helaian berlagak bagai kaki dan tangan. Si tangan meraih mangkuk, menjadikannya sebagai topi.

Tapi Alam tak melarikan diri, ia alih-alih menamai monster itu dengan panggilan sayang, Igor. Igor lambat laun mengubah langkah Alam Taslim—meninggalkan kehidupan sebagai Art Director di Jakarta menjadi Papa Igor berdomisili di Bali.

Igor dan sang Papa Alam saling tarik menarik ke dunia masing-masing, dunia realitas dan dunia monster. Sebagaimana layaknya monster, Igor tak kasat mata, namun Alam mengizinkan dunia untuk melihatnya melalui jemari terampilnya.



Di antara dua dunia itu, tercipta sosok ilustrasi surealis yang membawa Alam ke PAMERAN SENI RUPA tunggal berikutnya bertajuk “IGOR : NYAAMM!!” di Senimart, 25 Agustus-9 September 2017 di Paviliun 28.




Melalui Igor, Alam akan mentransformasikan buah pikirannya tentang betapa serba instan kehidupan masyarakat modern saat ini.

Kumpulan karya sketsa, ilustrasi, lukis dengan media-media yang beragam akan mempersilakan penikmat seni rupa untuk bercengkerama dengan Igor, sambil saling memahami diri dan dunia—termasuk 'realitas' yang kita ciptakan sendiri.

Monster tak perlu dilumpuhkan, ia bisa diajak bersahabat dan berkolaborasi demi dunia yang lebih baik. Setidaknya tidak menyakiti.